Great Migration — Mara River Crossings in the Northern Serengeti

Morning flight from Arusha to Kogatende airstrip, roughly two hours with one stop. Met on the strip and straight into a game drive on the way to camp. Afternoon along the river to see where the herds are sitting.

Out at dawn with breakfast in the vehicle. Crossings, when they happen, tend to be mid-morning to mid-afternoon, and they happen with almost no warning — a few thousand animals will stand at the bank for three hours and then go in twenty seconds. Long days, packed lunch, and patience.

North of the river into the Lamai wedge, which holds large resident lion prides and far fewer vehicles. If the crossing point has shifted, we shift with it.

A final morning on the river, then the flight south to Lake Manyara airstrip and up to the Ngorongoro rim by road.

Dawn descent, a morning on the crater floor, and the drive back to Arusha and Kilimanjaro International in the afternoon.

No, and be sceptical of anyone who does. Three days in the right sector gives you a good chance. Some groups see four crossings; some see none and watch a million animals grazing instead, which is not nothing.

Because the herds move and the camp moves with them. It is canvas, but it is a proper bed, a hot bucket shower and a flush toilet, not a groundsheet.

Yes — Arusha to Kogatende and Kogatende to Lake Manyara are both in the price. Baggage on these aircraft is limited to 15 kg in a soft bag.